Event Schedule

Friday September 4th

DIESEL DRAGS brought to you by NADM

Location: Rocky Mountain Raceway 6555 West 2100 South, West Valley City, Utah 84128

Time: Registration/Check-in starts at 5 p.m.

Event: Racing from 5:30 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.

Saturday September 5th

DYNO DAYS

Location: Edge Products 1080 South Depot Dr, Ogden, Utah 84404

Time: Registration starts at 8:00 a.m. Main Events from 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
Lunch From 11:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m.

Event: Dyno runs, food and prizes!

Get there early to schedule Dyno time. ALL DYNO EVENT PARTICIPANTS WILL RECEIVE A FREE HAT.

I loved being able to drive my turbo diesel Cummins even that short our trip. We finally made it there. We built a fire, roasted hot dogs, smores, and then went to bed. During the night we both woke up to rain. See, I thought we were being smart by just throwing all of our stuff in our utility trailer and using it for shelter instead of having to hassle with a tent. The downside to this is that rain is really loud against that metal roof. Anyways, we basically dozed in and out all night. It sounded miserable outside.

That morning we had to gather the stove, and all of the important stuff and bring it under the trailer. What I would have given for Husky Liners in the trailer! Mud and water were getting everywhere. I hate getting mud and water next to where I am trying to sleep. Anyways, it was cold, wet, and miserable. We were having fun, and it was an adventure, but we decided to pack it all up and go home and pretend to camp inside our nice warm house.

If you are going camping soon, and want to keep your nice truck from getting its floor trashed like my trailer, then you should really look into getting some Husky Floor Liners. Husky Floor Liners are not like any regular floor mat that say, “Ford Tough” or “Dodge”, no, Husky Liners contour to your specific make and model of floor and are designed to trap snow, mud and water. This keeps your carpet clean, and the miserable out of having fun in the rain.

If you are a working man, or just a man with a truck that likes to have fun, then I totally recommend them. You can find out more information here: Husky Floor Liners.

The first thing you need to do for this installation is remove the old intake tube and box. This is very easy. All you need is a screw driver to loosen the tube from the turbo and the box. Then, you need to remove the lid from the box, remove the old filter, and undew the 3 plastic nuts in the bottom of the intake box. Pull the old box out.

You will need to assemble the new box and all of its components before you go any further. Make sure to put the gasket material around the hole where the intake tube comes in. Place the Intake Box in the engine compartement exactly where the old one was and use the original plastic nuts to tighten the box down.

Place the 4″ rubber coupler on the small end of the intake tube along with the 2 – 4″ clamps. Place the large end of the intake tube in the intake box. Butt the small end of the intake tube against the Turbo Inlet and push half of the 4″ rubber gasket over the Turbo Inlet and clamp both sides.

Put the new cone filter in the box, and over the large end of the intake tube. Be sure that it is seated well, and tighten the large clamp around the filter, on to the tube.

Screw the plastic lid back on the intake box. Be sure that all the clamps are snug. Be careful not to over-tighten. You are done!

I really like this intake. I had installed MBRP’’s exhaust but it definitely needed a good intake to make it complete. Now we have plenty of air coming in and out! Definitely feel a power increase. I can also here the Turbo spool up quicker. If you have a 98-2002 24V Cummins, I recommend this intake to you.

Thanks Volant!

The Hypertech HyperPac was probably one of the easiest programmers I have ever installed. In fact, the HyperPac isnt really just a programmer. The Hypertech HyperPac combines the best of both worlds in a programmer and module with something like Edge Product’’s Attitude Monitor. The HyperPac Tunes your vehicle like a normal programmer would, through the OBDII port but everything else is like that of an in-line chip and monitor. I dont even need to describe the installation in this review/article because all you have to do is plug the HyperPac in the OBDII port and it walks you through the rest. Every page has a help button if you are stumped and everything is well described. Hypertech also sends you a very nice installation and user manual.

The HyperPac features a touch screen that is totally awesome! You can adjust the background color and text on the screen, mainly just deciding which one will be blue, and which will be white. The HyperPac comes with a Performance Tuning Section, Engine Monitor Section, Diagnostics, Dynanometer, Drag Strip Section and Vehicle/Hyperpac Options and Information Section.

The HyperPac Performance Tuning Section has 3 Stage’’s of power levels for my 2002 Dodge. Horsepower additions all the way up to an additional 45 RWHP. This obviously not an extreme amount of horsepower compaired to many other chips and programmers out there. However, for the individual that just wants a little quicker throttle response, Performance and Towing Power, its perfect. The important thing about Hypertech’’s HyperPac is the quality of their tuning. I have smooth acceleration across the board and I can tell that it is not being hard on my engine or transmission.

Besides the Performance Tuning Section, the Engine Monitoring Section is by far, my favorite section. On my rig, I was able to select from about 9 different Digital and Analog Guages that are way fun to play around with. Anytime you click on a digital or analog guage it takes you to a section that allows you to set an alarm for that guage. For instance, if I wanted to set the alarm to go off every time I went above 135 degrees in my Air Intake Temp, I could. The Engine Monitoring Section will also tell me things that my trucks guages normally would not, like my boost. Hypertech has another kit that you can purchase with the HyperPac that gives you the ability to monitor the EGT’’s. This is a must!

The HyperPac has so many other features. You can do recording sessions where you can do tests, and then go back and see what all your stats were at what part of the test. I have used this already. Before I installed my exhaust, I did a test run up a hill outside of town at 70MPH. The test records every half second or second(not sure), telling me how many MPH I was doing at what RPM and what BOOST at what EGT and more. I was then able to go back and run the same test after I installed my exhaust so I could see how much my EGT’’s had dropped in the same scenario.

Internet updates are something you can sign up for when you register your product. After an update has been released you can plug your HyperPac into your computer and download the update from the internet.

I really love my HyperPac and would recommend it to anybody that isnt looking to race. The only reason that I would go with anything else is so that I could get more horsepower for racing. As far as everyday driving performance and towing, the Hypertech HyperPac is the way to go.

I will give you a brief of the steps that need to be taken in this installation and maybe give more detail in some of the areas that I found tricky or the instructions to be confusing. Overall, the instructions are going to give you more information on the installation than I will. Whenever I came up against a bump, I found BD to be very helpful and supportive.

Preperation:

Disconnect the battery terminals. I recommend that you put some kind of protector over the passenger side fender so you dont scratch your paint while you work. I used a blanket.

Drain your coolant into a bucket to be re-used later. While your coolant is draining, remove your air intake assembly. Below your air filter, there are 3 nuts that you must unscrew to remove your air box. Next, disconnect your intake tube from your turbo. Remove the two 13mm bolts that connect your downpipe to your turbo flange and remove the cast elbow that is attached to your compressor housing. You will need a 7/16″ deep socket to loosen the V-Clamp. Be sure not to lose the orange O-Ring from the elbow.

Remove the black steel intercooler tube, you will need a 7/16″ deep socket for this. Remove the turbo oil feed line(top of the turbo). Place the line to the side because you will be using it again. Unbolt the turbo oil drain tube by removing the two 10mm bolts. Loosen the clamp on the bottom end of the oil drain and remove the oil drain tube completely.

Remove the 4 nuts holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold with a 15mm wrench. One of the shortest descriptions in the instruction manual, but I really found this to be a bugger. Definitely doable, because I did it. Not really sure that there are any tricks except that its probably good to have skinny tools because some of the nuts that attach the turbo barely allow for nut to be there, let alone your hefty wrench. After you remove the bolts, remove the turbo. If you are removing a turbo that you are not going to be using for the twins, like a stock turbo for instance, you can probably sell it on eBay, or maybe even Cummins Forum.

Remove the stock downpipe and intermediate pipe. I had a MBRP 4″ exhaust that I had to cut into. If you have an aftermarket exhaust, save the cutting for later when you can match the new downpipe with the new, primary turbo, and where it will meet your exhaust system.

There is a steel heater core line that is clamped in various places in front of the exhaust manifold. I removed this whole thing because it kept getting in my way. Remove the bolts and spacers from the exhaust manifold. Be sure to clean the surfaces of the engine block and the exhaust manifold so that they will seal good once you put them back on.

Now for the good stuff! We are at our first “Critical Step” in the instruction manual. The Primary Turbo is going to need its own oil drain and to make that happen, we need to tap into the engine in a new spot. About 6″ from the rear of the engine block towards the bottom, there is a frost plug that caps an oil drain port. To remove the plug, you will need to drill a small hole, using grease to coat the bit to collect any shavings. Then, insert a sheet metal screw into the plug and pull the screw, with the plug out with a pair of pliers. The only hard part for me with this step was knowing for sure where the plug was. I have taken some better pictures to help you future installers to know what you are supposed to do.

Coat the lower portion of the supplied block adapter(see the parts section of the manual) with loctite or anaerobic sealer and gently tap the spout into the block. I remember thinking, “what the heck? how is that going to be secure?!”, but remember its just a drain, you dont have to worry about any high pressure going through there and pushing out your adapter.

Reinstall the exhaust manifold in an inverted manner so that the manifold outlet faces upward. Be sure to put the new, provided gaskets back in. Torque at 32 ft. lbs.

Turbo Preperation:

Make sure that no packaging or anything are left inside of the turbos.

Be sure to loosen all the support bolts, housing bolts, and clamps on the turbochargers just enough to rotate the housing. This way, when you go to install them you can move them around and into the positions you want without too much hassle. You may find that when you put them back on you will have to adjust them once or twice.

Remove the old oil feed adapter from your stock turbo and put it on the new secondary turbo. Install the oil drain adapter onto the bottom of the secondary turbo with the supplied gasket and 2 lock washers and bolts.

Install the 90 degree brass oil feed adapter in the primary turbo and make sure that it points toward the engine with the compressor housing faced forward.

Install the short oil drain adapter to the bottom of the primary turbo with the supplied gasket, bolts and lock washers. This is the end of step 23 in your instruction manual.

Be sure to squirt fresh oil down the oil feed ports(where you just installed the fittings) of both turbos while slowly rotating the compressor wheel.

Remove the 1/8 NPT plug from the top of the oil filter head and replace it with the supplied JIC fitting.

Mount that secondary turbo to your exhaust manifold! Yahoo! Now we are getting somewhere!

At this point, the instructions give you some mounting instructions depending on wether you are using a stock or aftermarket exhaust manifold.

Using the appropriate, supplied V-Clamp, loosely mo

unt the Primary Support elbow to the secondary turbo. Make sure that the bolt/nut part of the clamp is on the bottom side to allow you to put the heat shield fabric between the support elbow and your truck body/wiring harness.

Use the supplied bolts, nuts, gasket, and attach the primary turbo loosely to the bottom of the primary support elbow. Before tightening anything, install the primary turbo support bracket as the picture and the installation guide show. Now you can tighten the four bolts, the v clamp and the support bracket.

At this point make sure that the center of the exhaust housings are vertical so that the oil feeds are pointing up. Tighten the exhaust housing bolts on both turbos. Install the oil drains and 4″ rubber sections to both turbos and connect them to the engine drain locations.

If your heater feed tube runs below your exhaust manifold, remove it and cut off the support bracket. Then, using the hardware provided and mentioned in the instruction manual, cut the tube in half and splice it like the pictures below.

At this point, install the oil feeds on both turbos to their appropriate places pointed out in the instruction manual.

Remove the boot and horn from the factory intercooler pipe and put them on the new one. Most of what you will be doing now is just installing all of the new tubes and spring clamps. Everything should fit well. Make sure that nothing will be hitting when the engine is actually running.

The only tricky thing that I experienced from here on out is the pipe that goes from the primary turbo into the intake. This took me a while to figure out and I believe I had to adjust the secondary turbo and some other tubes to make it work. One hint: the side of the tube that has a bend toward the end goes into the intake and holds the filter. That took me a while to figure out. If it feels like you are forcing something, slow down, go back and see if there is something you need to adjust. Everything should fit well.

I”m actually very surprised by how much room there actually is. I thought everything would be cramming in there super tight but its really not that bad.

As far as your downpipe goes, I kept going under my truck, making marks and then cutting my exhaust pipe and downpipe to fit. Then, I used the supplied 4″ exhaust splicer thingy to connect the 2 together. I actually went to NAPA and got one of theres that was 4″ on both sides. The clamp that BD sends is slightly larger than 4″ on one side and is too loose when I try to splice the two.

After you finish the installation be sure to put your coolant back in!

After Installation:
When you start your truck, dont hammer it right away. Listen for any funny noises. If you hear a farting noise, dont be worried, its not your turbo, its the chili dog that you ate for lunch. Dont be surprised if there is some slite smoking and even a weird smell after you run your truck for a while. This is the turbo breaking in and all of the factory oils being burnt off. The heat shield also burns a little after it is first installed.

My Review:
The first thing you will probably notice is the sweet spool up. It spools up quick and it sounds like a big jet turbine(if there is such a thing, I think that makes sense). I love the sound. Its almost relaxing to me. Another thing you will notice is the cooler EGT’’s. My EGT’’s lowered a lot. Its hard to tell exactly how much with just the twins because I hadnt pushed my truck very hard before I installed the aftermarket camshaft. I can tell you that with the 2 combined, I have a really hard time going over 1000 degrees, even when I floor it going up a mountain. In fact, when I get up to a certain boost, those turbos really kick in and start lowering my EGT’’s!! Its amazing to  watch your EGT’’s actually start lowering when your boost is raising

As far as the power goes, I have not done any racing yet, but I TAKE OFF. When I want to get somewhere fast, I can. It seems that when going up slight hills, my truck just sails up them instead of downshifting first. The turbos from what I hear, should also last me the life of my truck. If you need some more power to tow or just want to make your truck more powerful and faster, I highly recommend BD’’s Twin Turbos.

Thanks BD!

Take the backing off of the new nameplate and line it up carefully along the top of your pencil marks. After you have it where you want it, sweet across the front with your hand and make sure that it sticks good. Now, take the front plastic off. Beautiful! Well, at least mine was. I hope yours was too!





As far as the new Cummins Logo goes, I placed it about 1/2″ above the RAM 2500 and lined it up with the front. Other places to put the Cummins Logo are toward the front of your truck by the corner lights just like the new Dodge Cummins” have them, or I”ve also seen it in other locations on the front corner panel. Its up to you. I looked at all locations and thought right above the RAM 2500 to be the best.

Well, its all done now and it looks GREAT! I hope this article was a help to those of you looking to do the same thing. I purchased my nameplates from Avondale Automotive on eBay. I have purchased from them before and from the time I order, till the time I recieve, it usually takes about 3 days. I am VERY satisfied with their service.

Here is the link to the Cummins Turbo Diesel NamePlate
Here is the Link to the RAM 2500 NamePlate
If you have a 3500, here is the link for that: RAM 3500 NamePlate

NOTE: After reading this article, one viewer recommended using Fishing Line to cut off the nameplates instead of prying.

Turbo:
You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube. Also, check the shaft outside of the fins for any signs of scuffing. Too much play in the fins so that it hits the shaft is NOT good.

Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot.

Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it’’s been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.

Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant – have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97′’s).

Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)

Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

CPS Failures:
Some of these trucks are notorious for eating CPS’’s. They can leave you stranded anywhere anytime intermittedly. Finding out if it has been replaced (maybe more then once) might be a good idea. You never know when they”ll go out, so it is best to carry a spare. These can often be had for under 60 bucks shipped on ebay, and can easily run in excess of 200 dollars at the dealership!!! It is a simple fix that is described in the “tech files” for the 7.3 forum.

Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.

Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.

VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN’’s through Carfax.com to see the title history.